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Received February 17, 2010
Accepted March 10, 2010
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Porcine Placenta의 기능성 화장품소재 특성
Functional Cosmetic Effect of Porcine Placeta
아마란스화장품, 618-817 부산시 강서구 송정동 1534-2 1인제대학교 제약공학과, 621-749 경남 김해시 어방동 607번지
Amaranth Cosmetics, 1534-2, Songjeong-dong, Gangseo-gu, Busan 618-817, Korea 1Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University, 607, Obang-dong, Gimhae-si, Gyeongnam 621-749, Korea
pedkim@inje.ac.kr
Korean Chemical Engineering Research, June 2010, 48(3), 327-331(5), NONE Epub 5 July 2010
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Abstract
돈 태반의 화장품소재로서의 응용가능성을 조사하기 위해 알칼리 가수분해, 효소처리 및 산처리 가수분해 방법을 이용하여 추출물을 얻었다. 돈 태반 추출물의 중금속함량을 측정한 결과 납, 비소, 수은 등이 매우 낮아서 화장품소재로서 적절하였다. 화장품소재의 안전성시험(MTT assay) 결과 돈 태반 추출물은 모두 50 μg/ml의 농도에서 80% 이상의 세포생존율을 보여주어서 독성이 비교적 낮은 것으로 나타났다. DPPH free radical scavenging assay를 사용한 항산화 시험 결과, 50 μg/ml의 농도에서 pH9로 알칼리 처리한 경우가 항산화율이 63%로 가장 높았다. Tyrosinase 활성저해 시험을 사용한 미백효과 측정 결과 50 μg/ml의 농도에서 알칼리처리한 추출물의 효과가 30% 정도의 tyrosinase 억제효과를 보여주어서 가장 우수하였지만, 대조군인 arbutin이나 비타민 C에 비해 그 효과가 다소 낮았다. Elastase 활성 억제시험을 이용한 주름개선 효과 측정결과 50 μg/ml의 농도에서 5가지의 처리법에서 모두 20~30%의 elastase 저해 활성을 보여주어서, 대조군보다 우수하였으며, 특히 효소처리한 추출물의 효과가 가장 우수하였다. 돈 태반 추출물 1%를 함유한 스킨제형을 제조하여 온도, 시간에 따른 안정성 시험결과, 안정성 역시 매우 우수하였다. 따라서 돈 태반 추출물은 주름개선 기능성 화장품소재로서의 가능성이 높음을 알 수 있었다.
Porcine placenta was treated with alkali, acid and enzyme treatment to obtain extracts. Heavy metal contents such as Pb, As, and Hg were low enough to satisfy cosmetic agent standard. As a result of safety test(MTT assay), porcine placenta extracts showed over 80% of cell viability at 50 μg/ml, and cell toxicity was relatively lower. From antioxidation test using DPPH free radical scavenging assay, antioxidation effect was highest as 63% at 50 μg/ml when porcine placenta was treated with alkali in pH 9. From whitening effect test using tyrosinase inhibition assay, tyrosinase inhibition effect was 30% at 50 μg/ml concentration in alkali treated procine placenta, however, the efficiency was lower compared with arbutin or vitamin C. In anti-wrinkle effect test from elastase inhibition assay, elastase inhibition effects were 20~30% at 50 μg/ml for 5 kinds of porcine placenta treatments, which was superior to standard, and especially, protease treated extracts showed best results. Skin formulation including 1% porcine placenta was made and the formulation was very stable for temperature and storage period. From this research, porcine placenta extract showed high potential for anti-wrinkle functional cosmetic agent.
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Kim JY, Yang HJ, Lee KH, Jeon SM, Ahn YJ, Won BR, Park SN, J. Cosmet. Sci., 33, 165 (2007)
Yang HJ, Ahn YJ, Kim JH, Park SN, J. Cosmet. Sci., 34, 189 (2008)
Hong ES, Ahn GW, Jo BK, J. Cosmet. Sci., 34, 129 (2008)
Wu CH, Chang GY, Chang WC, Hsu CT, Chen RS, British J. Dermatol., 148, 236 (2003)
Friess AE, Sinowatz F, Skolek-Winnisch R, Trautner W, The placenta of the pig, Springer, Berlin (1981)
Yabiki T, Namoika S, Am. J. Vet. Res., 37, 535 (1976)
Kenichi N, Miki H, Takashi K, Fragr. J., 29, 34 (2001)
Kim BY, “Development of Functional Cosmetic Agent from Porcine Placenta,” Master Thesis, Inje University, Gimhae, Gyongnam (2010)
Kim JH, Sim GS, Lee DH, Lee GS, Lee BC, Pyo HB, J. Cosmet. Sci., 33, 203 (2007)
Park SK, Hong SK, Kim HJ, Kim BY, Kim T, Kang JS, Kim D, Korean Chem. Eng. Res., 47(5), 553 (2009)
Kim JY, Yang HJ, Lee KH, Jeon SM, Ahn YJ, Won BR, Park SN, J. Cosmet. Sci., 33, 165 (2007)
